Why I Ditched Santorini for Himare
Himare gives you turquoise beaches, cliffside villages, and honest Mediterranean charm at half the cost of Santorini, without crowds or pressure to perform for Instagram.
I Shavvy, adore Santorini, but last summer something in me just resisted the idea of polished white walls, crowds funneling down narrow streets, and paying the price of a small scooter for a single cocktail. I wanted a coastline that felt raw and sunlit, with enough imperfections to feel alive. So I pointed my map slightly east, crossed into Albania, and landed in Himare, a town that completely reset how I think about the Mediterranean.
I was not prepared for how much I would feel there. The quiet mornings, the sense of space, the way the sea kept its color all day instead of fading into tourist haze. It was my secret kind of beautiful.
The Moment Himare Won Me Over
I arrived on a bus from Saranda, the road curling along cliffs like a ribbon someone had dropped too casually. When Himare finally appeared below, it looked like a watercolor someone forgot to finish, soft blues melting into empty beaches. It felt real in a way Santorini hasn’t for me in years.
The first thing I did was walk straight into the water. That first swim is still one of my favorite travel memories. No crowds. No shouting. No timed reservations. Just the Ionian Sea, calm and cool and mine for a moment.
I remember thinking, If this were Santorini, I’d be shoulder-to-shoulder with a dozen photographers right now.
What Makes Himare So Special
Prices That Let You Breathe
A beachfront meal cost me about the same as a takeaway sandwich in Santorini. My family-run guesthouse, with a balcony overlooking the water, was the price of a budget hostel bed in Oia. It felt like I had accidentally stumbled into Europe fifteen years ago and the prices had not caught up yet.
Slow Mediterranean Culture, Without the Performance
People greet you with a simple “Mirëmëngjes” in the morning, not a rehearsed tourist greeting. Old men drink tiny glasses of raki under the shade of fig trees. Kids jump off jetties without anyone shouting about drone shots.
It is wonderfully uncurated. The kind of place where you actually get to be a traveler, not content.
Beaches That Rival Greece, With Room to Spare
Livadi Beach was my favorite, a long stretch of polished stones and water so clear I could see my toes even when I drifted out far. Jale Beach, a short drive south, had that perfect early-afternoon glow that makes the sea look like liquid glass. In Santorini, I spent more time positioning myself around crowds than enjoying the view. In Himare, I kept wondering where everyone was.
Food That Feels Like Home Cooking
I still dream about the grilled sea bass at a taverna run by two sisters who cooked like they were feeding cousins, not customers. Tomatoes tasted like they grew under an actual sun. Olive oil was poured with the generosity of a grandmother who doesn’t believe in measuring.
Prices were low, but what struck me most was the sincerity. They cooked with zero pretension.
My Favorite Day in Himare
One morning I hiked up to the old castle ruins. The path smelled like wild oregano and warm dust. From the top, Himare spread out like a secret, the sea bending softly until it met the horizon. A local man sitting nearby pointed at the village below and said, “It is simple here, but simple is good.”
Something about that stuck with me.
I walked back down the hill and swam again before lunch. No schedule. No pressure. Just that freedom you forget exists in places where travel has become a staged experience.
Himare vs. Santorini: A Honest Comparison
| Travel Factor | Himare | Santorini |
|---|---|---|
| Price | Affordable meals and stays | Premium pricing everywhere |
| Crowds | Minimal, even in peak season | Very crowded, especially at sunset |
| Beaches | Clear, quiet, spacious | Dramatic, beautiful, but packed |
| Vibe | Local, slow, unpolished in the best way | Iconic but commercial |
| Best for | Travelers craving authenticity and calm | Travelers seeking classic postcard photos |
Practical Tips From My Time There
- Best time to visit: June or September. Warm water, kind sun, and lower prices.
- Getting there: Fly into Tirana or Corfu, then bus or ferry to Saranda and onward to Himare.
- Where to stay: Pick a family-run guesthouse in Old Himare or a simple hotel near Livadi Beach.
- What to eat: Fresh fish, byrek, homemade fig jam, and whatever the family taverna recommends.
- Local etiquette: Smile, say faleminderit, and accept the homemade raki if you’re offered it.
A small warning from experience: the roads along the Albanian Riviera are stunning, but they twist sharply. If you get motion sick, plan breaks.
Why Himare Feels Like the Future of Mediterranean Travel
The Mediterranean is changing. Many places are tiring from overtourism and rising costs. Himare gave me this glimpse of what travel used to feel like. Honest. Spacious. Local first.
It reminded me that the best destinations are not always the loudest ones. Sometimes they are the little towns with small harbors, where the sea still feels like a neighbor and not a backdrop.
By the time I left, I promised myself I would come back before everyone discovers it. I know they will. Places this good never stay quiet forever.
If Santorini feels too crowded or too expensive, trust your instincts and go somewhere that lets you breathe. Himare is perfect for travelers who crave beauty without spectacle, honest prices, and the kind of Mediterranean quiet that feels like a gift.